We stayed at Central House in the Claverack compound during our visit to Kodaikanal over the weekend that just went by. It’s a quiet place up the steep climb of Consumption Ghat (i am curious how that name happened). Near yet far from the madding crowds of summer tourists all around the lake, just 750 metres from Seven Roads Junction.
On Saturday morning, as we set out to walk along the Lower Shola Road to the lake, the security guard warned us that a kaatu madu, Indian bison also known as gaur, had just passed by.
We avoided that road and strolled down Consumption Ghat, around the lake for a simple and hearty breakfast of 'malai poondu soup' for me and 'aatukaal soup' for Liby, kara (spicy) paniyaram and motta (egg) paniyaram with chutney, and we packed the vazhapoo paniyaram.
From there 250 metres down, we stocked up on cheese from Kodai Cheese, had tea on the way, and took the long walk back to Central House.
The same evening was the Spring Concert at Kodaikanal International School where Karuna studies. The performances were great, and Karuna sang her solo with confidence and heart. She had tackled with grace a not-so-easy song "Fly me to the moon", immortalized by Frank Sinatra and Peggy Lee. Many people came and shared their happiness and appreciation for Karuna’s performance. We were basking in reflected glory as we walked back from school.
Liby played Louis Armstrong’s version of the song as we trudged up the steep climb of Consumption Ghat back to Central House. It was dark and there was a thick mist. We had our hoods on and used our phone torch to light the way, dodging fresh dung.
All of a sudden Liby froze in his spot and gave me a terse instruction to shut my phone torch. I looked up to see the silhouette of bison horns around 80 metres away. It was dark, but from the direction of the head it clearly seemed the bison sensed us too. We took gentle steps back, till we reached the wall on the edge of the path, behind us, draped in foliage. Stillness and silence we decided was the best course of action. We breathed without sound and held each other’s hand. This could be a long night, or not...
A few minutes later we noticed some movement and sound in the bush across us, another bison, this one less than 40m away, much closer than the first we spotted. The bison stepped out majestically and looked at us. We looked back. All along I was sending messages "I’m your friend, please do not be afraid, i will not harm you (as if i could!)". The bison stepped forward with deliberate steps and made a halt when it was directly across the road from us, less than 2 metres separating us. We were frozen. The good animal decided we were harmless and resumed the slow deliberate walk down Consumption Ghat.
We breathed, a bit. Liby craned his neck and whispered, "is there another one", the first that we’d spotted further down the road? The mist was thick. I sensed it, and gripped his hand "yes". This could be a very long wait.
It moved, and it’s silhouette came in view. This one, after a bit of hesitation, decided to come down the ghat as well. We waited with bated breath.
This one was more drama. It came down, paused more than once. And like the previous one stopped right across from us. It turned a bit to face us more fully and for a moment I felt it might amble over, or, as it let out a snort, charge! What would we do then? I told myself i would lie down and act dead (Prasanth had told us just that evening how that tactic worked). But that movement could also upset the bison. I resumed my "I’m your friend", silent communication, and even smiled in the dark. Liby tightened his grip on my hand. And then the mood shifted. The bison turned, and continued to walk down the ghat. We continued to wait, Liby stretching his neck to look at how far down it had gone. Once we felt sure, we breathed, and silently walked the rest of the way to Central House.
Were we afraid, clearly yes. Did the fear paralyse us, not really. We did not panic, and faced the two bisons, and i like to think made two friends. After all we were uninvited guests in their home, and their curiosity about us was understandable. That they walked on i took as a sign that our presence in their home was alright, and that is something that I accept with gratitude.
And if you have some time do read this lovely article on how residents of Kodaikanal relate to this majestic animal: https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/environment/the-strangers-in-our-midst/
